Drafting the Bodice Block
Pattern Cutting - How to cut your own sewing patterns. Although it is much easier to download sewing patterns drafted to your own measurements, many sewers like to learn how to do it from scratch. Here are my In-Depth Pattern Cutting Videos to get you started
The Pattern Cutting eBook Series is available to Members or can be purchased separately. I am including the Transcript for the Pattern Cutting Series. Members can download these videos to keep.
Part 3 - Draft the Neckline & Bust Dart
Pattern Cutting - The Variables
The Back Bodice
Find O: Measuring down from Top Line to mark O - 1", for over 38" bust 1½".
Find Bust Line: Measuring down from O for Bust Line: 8½" for Bust 36/38". Add or subtract ¼" for every 2" larger or smaller.
Find Neck Width: 2½" + ⅛" for Bust 36. Add or subtract ⅛" for each size larger or smaller.
Back Bust Line - Add 2" to Half Back Width for average sizes. A little less for smaller sizes. For larger sizes add up to 2¾".
Back Hip Point - For larger sizes make HP ½" or so less than ¼ hip measurement for CB.
The Front Bodice
Find the Shoulder Line: Measure down from O 1¾", for Bust 42" and over 1½".
Find the Base of Neckline: Measure down from O 3". This can be increased to 3¼" - 3½" for larger sizes.
Find the Shoulder Dart Width: For Bust 36" the dart width along the Shoulder is 3". Add or subtract ¼" for sizes larger or smaller.
Front Hip Line - For larger sizes make HP more than ¼ hip + 1½" to 2" from CF. Look for balance in the side seam between the back and front at Hip Level.
Find the True Waist: For larger sizes drop the Centre Front Waist Point up to 1" an up to ½" at the side seam.
Pattern Cutting - The Transcript
On the back bodice, point O was an 1" down from the Top Line.
On the Front Bodice it is placed on the Top Line.
Measure the front shoulder line 1¾” below O, 1½” for 42 bust and over. See my PDF Guide, and draw across. Label Shoulder Line.
Measure the neckline 3" down from O and draw across. This is the base of the neck. It can be drawn 3¼" - 3½" down in larger sizes.
Measure neck width from O, that's without the ⅛" we added on the back neck. The front neck is never less than 2.5" wide. Draw a vertical line down to the Neck Line.
Draw a guide line at 45 degrees and measure along 1¼" for the neck curve.
Draw in the neckline shape. The front bodice goes right up to the top Line, therefore the Neck Point is ½" higher than the Neck Point on back bodice and is 1" higher than O on the back bodice. For 38" bust sizes and bigger it can be 1½” higher or more. See my PDF for variables.
From the Bust line measure 1½” up for the Chest line.
Measure from the Centre Front along shoulder guide 6½”, that’s for all sizes.
Draw a line from the Neck Point to this point and extend beyond.
Now, along the bust line measure a quarter of of your Across Chest measurement from Centre Front.
Measure a line up vertically from 1" below Bust Line to the shoulder line.
So this is what we have so far.
Then measure a point ¾” to the left from this point on the shoulder line. Join this to the point 1" below bust line for the Inner Dart Line. Then measure the Dart Line width as 2¾", in this case, along the shoulder line from the inner dart line. This again is a variable 3" for bust 36”
Check the PDF for variables. Draw a line through this point, to join the shoulder to the point, 1" below the bust line, for the Outer Dart Line.
Now, taking your shoulder measurement, plus the 2¾" in this case for the dart width, measure along the extended shoulder for the SP.