Make a Dress Series II - with Transcript - Part Eight

part 1part 2part 3part 4part 5part 6part 7 • part 8 • series index

Part Eight - Finishing the Lined Sleeveless Dress. Join the Shoulders, Understitching and lastly Blind Hemming

How to Make a Dress

Using my Free Pattern - The Pinafore

Add a Lining


Make a Dress - A Second Series.

I'm featuring my Free Pinafore Pattern again but this time I am showing how to add a lining. This is part 8 the final episode. Finish the lining and complete the hem.

Moving on to joining the shoulders. The garment is now inside out and we are going to machine stitch these shoulder seams.

Now you can see why we stopped the stitching well short of the shoulder seam. It gives us a little room to manoeuvre.

So, looking at this more closely, we can fold back the lining seam allowances to enable us to stitch the garment shoulder seam.

So, matching our shoulder points, pin the seam carefully. We can now machine the shoulder seam without fear of catching the lining. Be as accurate as you can, stitching a 5/8" seam.

Next we press the shoulder seam open keeping the lining out of the way. The sleeve board again is good for this. Trim the seam allowance to remove bulk. Press the seam allowance back into position.

The next job is to neatly fold in the lining seam allowance. But first, I'm going to secure the seam allowance in place with a few tacking stitches. Do the other side the same. I'm using my iron to get a nice finish here. I'm making sure the lining seam lines up with the shoulder seam of the dress and then pinning in place.

All we need to do now is delicately slipstitch the lining in place along here and complete the lining seam here.

Looking good. A little bit of hand stitching can be the making of a garment. There are several ways to do this by machine but this method will always lead to success.

To join this seam just take small stitches from each side and pull up gently. Trim away any threads and give the seam a press. Perfect.

So two nicely finished shoulder seams - both the same width. I shall be finishing the back by slipstitching the lining in place. I have taken my basting stitches out.

I'm going to under stitch the seam allowance to the lining. This will stop the lining from creeping up and showing on the right side. You just stitch as far as you can at the places that you can get at.

We are close to finishing.

At the machine for the under stitching. I have all the lining on the right. I'm stitching in the seam allowance and keeping the two sides spread apart. I don't want any folds in the lining. stitch as far as you can.

So that is how it looks from the inside. The lining will now stay put. So all the under stitching is done.

The next job is to pin the lining in place along the zipper tape. and slip stitch in place. We want to make sure the two sides of the zip are equal. So pin matching the waist line seams and slipstitch in place. These stitches can be quite well spaced to speed things up.

So that's the pinafore dress with a lining. Sometimes I take a few tacking stitches here, hidden in the seam, to ensure that the lining stays put.

The last job is the hem. The hem needs trimming. You can see just how much this fabric is prone to fraying. I will overlock this edge or a zigzag will do just as well.

Also we want to trim the lining. Before you do this, you will want to try your dress on to decide on length. You may well want to make it shorter. Large tummies or rears can affect how the dress hangs. So you want to check that the skirt hangs straight by measuring from the floor up.

So I have overlocked my hem. I want to reduce the bulk in the fold of the hem. This is going to be a 2" hem. I'm going to clip a little V where the fold comes. This makes quite a difference if your fabric is bulky.

At the back vent, I'm clipping the double seam allowance at the fold. I'll press this to the left and this to the right and also clip at the top of the hem line. Then when the pleat is pressed flat, the seam allowance above the hem will lie flat.

So, we are going to pin the hem all round ready for blind hemming. I start with the seams and centres and then fill in in between. And for the lining, I am going to fold up a half an inch with the help of my iron, then turn up and pin a 1½" hem and machine.

I'm using a blind hemming foot. Check your machine instructions for the blind hemming stitch - all zigzag machines will have one. You can easily stitch a hem like this by hand though.

So, using the iron to turn up a half inch hem.Then I'm measuring and pinning up 1½" ready for machining. Press the hem.

Press the back pleat from the right side. Then a final press .

This dress is finished and looking very nice. Choose a nice belt or make a belt from the fabric you have left over. I shall leave that for another lesson.

Pictures of this dress coming to my website soon. This pattern is a Free Sewing Pattern Download from my website. It is available in small, medium and large

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