Make a Dress Series II - with Transcript - Part Seven
Part Seven - Sewing in the Lining, Stay Tape to the Neck and Armhole Edges, Turning Through the Lining and Pressing
How to Make a Dress
Using my Free Pattern - The Pinafore
Add a Lining
Make a Dress - A Second Series.
I'm featuring my Free Pinafore Pattern again but this time I am showing how to add a lining. This is part 7. The all important Sewing in of the Lining.
I will show you the most commonly used method for putting a lining in a sleeveless dress. It is considered to be the classic way in couture, featuring hand finishing. I think it is the easiest to understand and will always give good results. There are many other methods which I will be featuring in future videos.
So we have our main garment and our lining. The shoulder seams will be joined during the process of inserting the lining. I chose not to interface this garment. I didn't want to lose the softness of this fabric but it needs a little support around the neckline and armhole edges.
I'm going to use a stay tape - just lengths of woven interfacing, cut on the grain so that it will not stretch and ironed along the stitching line. Just cut a length about a half an inch wide It's helpful to have a variety of interfacings at hand.
I buy a metre of two of woven and non-woven in both black and white and in two or three different weights. These days I usually buy iron on. Occasionally I need something more specific but it all comes in handy.
Right, then press on the wrong side around the neckline and armhole edges. Make sure the interfacing is sticky side down. Some interfacings need steam to fix them and some require a dry iron, so check when you buy and make a note for the future.
Do the same with the back neckline and all the way around the armholes. This will give a nice firm edge when turned to the inside Press long enough for the interfacing to stick You can piece it if necessary.
So that's done. Now to join the garment and lining. Slip the lining into the dress. The dress is turned inside out and the lining is right side out. So it's right sides together.
We are going to match the centres.
Our shoulders should line up. We will pin the lining just this far. Do the same with the armhole. Again pin just this far.
The secret to a good finish is for the lining to be invisible. To achieve this we will use this trick to make the lining narrower at the shoulders. Pin a very small tuck in just the garment at the shoulder. So when we come to stitch we will lose some lining width.
So we are pinning just about an inch short of the shoulder seam You will see why, in a minute You see that little extra bit of lining that will be lost will make all the difference.
Do the same with the other side and again with the back, pinning around the armhole and along the back neck edge. When you get to about here, take the tuck in the shoulder as before, just ignore this dart again. See how the lining extends and so will result in the lining being narrower over the shoulder and so will be hidden from view
So, at the machine, I'm starting with the back neckline, stitch from about this point, an inch or so from the shoulder. At the centre back, at the top of the zip, I have folded out the seam allowances and I will stitch right to the edges.
So, stitch the front neck and the armhole edges in the same way. Again, starting about an inch from the shoulder. Finishing an inch or so from the edge as before. And again, stitch the armhole edges as well, across the side seam and up the other side. And again, the back neck from the zip edge, stopping well short of the shoulder seam.
So, our edges are stitched. We need to trim these edges and clip the curves at regular intervals so that the seam turns nicely. Get quite close to the stitch line with your snips, being careful not to cut the stitches though.
The interfacing will help to stop any fraying. So the edges are trimmed and clipped.
So, next we turn through for pressing. Pull out the shoulder sections. The dress is beginning to take shape.
The next job is to press these edges carefully, making sure the seam rolls to the inside, out of view. Can you see that when this is opened out, because of the tucks we made, over the shoulder, the seam is pulled to the inside.
So we will now get all these edges beautifully pressed. Avoid pressing right up to the shoulder. We will leave that for when the shoulder seam is completed.
That is looking very nice. And now the back. The lining will be slipstitched to the zip tape. We need to press the seam allowance here to the inside at the top of the neck. This will create a nice neat finish for the back of the dress.
Continue, pressing the armhole edges, keeping the seam to the inside. At this stage, I like to baste the edges just to keep them in good shape. In the next video we will join the shoulders, stitch the hem and the dress will be finished.