Make a Dress Series II - with Transcript - Part Six

part 1part 2part 3part 4part 5 • part 6 • part 7part 8series index

Part Six - Making Up the Lining, About Finishing Seams

How to Make a Dress

Using my Free Pattern - The Pinafore

Add a Lining

 

Make a Dress - A Second Series.

I'm featuring my Free Pinafore Pattern again but this time I am showing how to add a lining. This is part 6. Making up the Lining.

The construction is exactly the same as the main garment. We have our bodice and the skirt pieces. The only difference is that we are not going to have a zip in the centre back.

We can make some shortcuts such as back stitching at the dart points rather than knots to speed things up. A few words on finishing seams. We want to get our lining made up nice and quickly. When you line a garment, very often none of the seams are finished. The seams are not on show and lined garments are more likely to be dry cleaned.

Unless the fabric is extremely prone to fraying, leaving raw edges are fine. But this is an everyday dress and I may well end up popping this garment in the washing machines so I am finishing all my edges.

This seam is finished with an overlock stitch on a modern sewing machine which works really well. Just a standard zigzag stitch is also good. I recommend this foot.

Both the overlock stitch and the zigzag stitch works well with this foot. The stitch goes over a bar and stops the edge from curling under. That's very handy.

Here I have used pinking shears and that works pretty well at reducing fraying. One advantage of pinking the edge which applies to the main garment as well, is that you avoid the pressing marks that often show through with delicate fabrics. Stitched neatening will always show some sort of impression unless you take avoiding action by laying something between the seam allowance and the garment while pressing.

This is how you will see most commercial clothes finished. It is stitched with an overlocker also called a serger. I have used a wide stitch, pressed to one side. It's about the quickest way to neaten seams. Used a lot on T-shirts and underwear.

Again, using an overlocker but on a seam that has been pressed open. Probably the most common form of neatening for home sewers who have an overlocker.

So you have choices. I'm going with this, the pressed open, overlocked seam for most of my neatening. So I am just using a couple of pins for the darts and it won't take long to get them stitched.

It's quicker to back stitch to secure at the point but you can knot if you have more time. When all the lining darts are stitched, press as for the main garment. Bust darts downwards and other darts towards the centre. Give each piece a press all over.

Now we can construct the lining in just the same way as the main garment, We stitch the side seams but don't forget leave the shoulder seams unstitched. Neaten and press as we go.

We are ready to join the lining bodice to the skirt. So right sides together, matching side seams and centres, easing if necessary.

So that is stitched and the seam is neatened. With this dress it doesn't really matter whether you press seam up or down. Trim threads as you go to keep your garment neat on the inside.

Now to finish the back seam. So to stitch the back seam, match at the waist and measure down to where the zip will start. This is the measurement we used when marking the base of our zip before insertion.

Continue pinning the seam around the back vent section and all the way down to the hem.

That is now stitched. As with the main garment, snip into the angle where the back vent begins as we are going to press the seam allowance open above this point. We want to neaten the seam above the clip to press open and below the clip we will neaten the seam allowances together, as with the main garment.

That is now done. We will press the vent to one side and press open above, all the way up to the top. Check the measurement of the vent again before pressing. I'm pressing the centre back seam line - my sleeve board is so useful for jobs like this or you can do it on your ironing board. You may prefer just to baste this fold. It will be slipstitched to the zip tape and sometimes it is easier to do with a soft fold.

The lining is nearly finished. And to the last job before attaching the lining to the main garment is to stitch here to hold the vent in position. Just as we did with the main garment. It's easier to do this from the inside as you can see where the angled vent seam is. So this is where we are going to stitch. At the machine, making sure other parts of your lining are well clear of the sewing plate, stitch your seam, locking both ends with a few stitches in reverse.

So that is the lining finished. Coming next. Lining the Pinafore.

This dress pattern is free and can be downloaded from my website - angelakane.com. You no longer have to register for the Free Pattern.

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