Make a Dress Series II - with Transcript - Part Three

part 1part 2 • part 3 • part 4part 5part 6part 7part 8series index

Part Three - Stitching the Darts, Securing Threads, Pressing

How to Make a Dress

Using my Free Pattern - The Pinafore

Add a Lining


Make a Dress - A Second Series.

I'm featuring my Free Pinafore Pattern again but this time I am showing how to add a lining. This is part 3. Stitching and Pressing the Darts.

We can now get on with sewing. The first thing to do with this dress is to stitch all the darts. These little darts at the shoulder can be tricky. It is always easier to lay your dart flat on the table as you pin.

I see sewers holding the dart in the air or on their lap as they pin. Laying it flat ensures accuracy and nice straight darts will be the making of this little dress.

I always pin with the widest part of the dart to the left so that the pins are pointing towards the machine foot as you stitch for easy removal. I like to place a pin across the fold at the point so that I know exactly where the dart should end.This ensures that pairs of darts will be even.

I'm not a fan of glass headed pins. When sewers complain of problems they have, with sewing over pins, glass headed pins are usually the culprit.

If you are making this little dress for the first time, you may want to try on the garment before machine stitching. In that case baste all your darts and seams and make adjustments if necessary.

If you need to increase your waste size for example, it may be sufficient to just reduce the size of all the waist darts a little. I will be making a tutorial on fitting very soon.

So at the machine we will stitch from the seam edge to the point. So remove pins as you go. You can machine over the pins at right angles. Sew straight off the fold and leave enough thread to tie a knot.

Get all the darts stitched in one go. It's quick once you get a rhythm going. A couple of stitches in reverse to start. Shorten the stitch as you approach the fold for added security.

Remove tailors tacks as you go, it's such a bore when you leave it to the end. Tweezers are useful for this.

One of these brushes makes light work of collecting all the threads. It's important to tie of the threads at the dart points. I like to do a simple knot, like this. I use a pin to get the knot in the right position.Tie a second knot and cut the threads leaving a tail - that won't come undone.

Our bodice is taking shape. A tailors ham is great for getting a good shape when pressing your darts. Usually darts are pressed downwards or towards the centre. Yes these darts are looking nice.

Again here on the skirt, using the ham helps to give a nice smooth shape over the hip line. Using a wooden clapper holds the steam in the dart and gives a great finish, this is especially important with tailoring.

A little look at the front bodice on the stand. Yes, this fabric is shaping up well.

To check your measurements, look for the sizing chart on My free patterns usually come in small, medium and large and you can check the actual measurements here. Have you checked my range of patterns recently?

SPECIAL NOTE - CHANGES TO THIS VIDEO. Individual patterns, video views and bundles are no longer available. It seems everyone would rather join!

But don't forget, Full Members get everything - You can join for just a single year or for a continuing subscription. It's terrific value. Coming next in this series Making Up the Pinafore Dress

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