Make a Dress Series II - with Transcript - Part Two

part 1 • part 2 • part 3part 4part 5part 6part 7part 8series index

Part Two - Transferring the Markings from Sewing Pattern to the Fabric, Tailor Tacks, Cutting Out the Lining, Dressmakers Tracing Paper and Marking with Chalk

How to Make a Dress

Using my Free Dress Pattern - The Pinafore

Add a Lining


Make a Dress - A Second Series.

I'm featuring my Free Pinafore Pattern again but this time I am showing how to add a lining. This is part 2. The all important transfer of the markings.

Darts and other important construction details need to be transferred to your fabric. A woollen type fabric is better marked with tailors tacks, chalk would not show up.

Choose a contrasting thread. We will stitch with the thread double and no knot.

Take one stitch, then another in the same place. Pull up leaving a decent loop. Then snip. So you have a loop and two ends, so that when you pull the fabric apart and snip you will have a tuft of threads. You may find it easier to make a hole first using a pencil. Printer paper is not as easy to stitch through as the commercial tissue patterns.

If your thread is inclined to knot use beeswax or run it over a wax candle. You'll find it makes all the difference.

When your tailor's tacks are close together, for example here where I am marking the dart, to save time you can continue making all your tacks and then snip between them afterwards.

Separate the patterns from the fabric, being careful not to pull the tacks out.
Then pull the layers apart and snip the threads carefully.

Now that our main fabric is marked, we are free to use the same pattern pieces to cut out the lining.

Again I am using a standard 5/8" seam allowance but this is not set in stone, it's just easier when it comes to machining to be consistent. Snip all notches, centres and darts in the seam allowance as you cut out.

Lining pieces are more easily marked with dressmaking tracing paper and a tracing wheel. See my original Make a Dress Series for more information on this.

The pattern is still pinned securely in place. The paper comes in several difference colours so choose the one you think will show up best. You can use the paper over and over again. One pack lasts ages.

The result can be a little faint on some fabrics so It's best to go over the markings with chalk.

Again, its easier to get all your marking done in one session

So, we have all our pieces marked up. .

This pattern is a free download on It is available free in three sizes, small, medium and large.

Next a revision on sewing and pressing darts

Join as a member and get all my in-depth videos and patterns in sizes 6-22 included.

Many of my Members are making this Roll Collar Coat along with me. Pictured here in black linen over another bargain, black and white woven check fabric made up into a classic sleeveless shift.

Teamed with a classy black patent belt. A sophisticated combination.

Check out my other videos on and my YouTube Channel angelakanetv.

I originally made this free pattern in blue denim, watch my first Make a Dress Series and learn about topstitching, patch pockets and hand embroidery as a bonus.


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